New York City.

Creative Industries Study Tour

New York City

Tonight I am departing New York City, with everything I was seeking, direction, concept inspiration and design inspiration to begin designing for my graduating collection.

4th December 2010.

Initiatives in Art and Culture

Vintage: Value, Values and Enduring Design

Conference

Day 13

Today was Day 2 of the Initiatives in Art and Culture conference, where I met designer Anna Sui. Anna Sui kickstarted the conference with her discussion, The Designer's Perspective: Spring 2011. While playing through the runway footage of her Spring 2011 collection, Sui spoke about the inspiration, development and influences of her most recent fashion show. Once again as a design student, I found it inspiring to hear the design process of another practitioner. It was educating to learn that Sui based her Spring 2011 collection around an all- time favourite movie of hers "Days of Heaven (by Terrence Malick, 1978), explaining that she loved its dreamy twilight mood and vast heartland landscapes. By gaining knowledge in Sui's concept I felt I could connect more with the collection, understanding further the feeling captured within the garments. It was enchanting to hear of Anna Sui's success as she shared the details of opening her first store, how she created her doll logo, how she came to where she is today and how the brand, Anna Sui still has room to grow.

3rd December 2010.

Initiatives in Art and Culture

Vintage: Value, Values and Enduring Design

Conference

Day 12

Today I attended the Initiative in Art and Culture Conference, the topic discussed was, Vintage: value, values and enduring design. The first speaker Catherine I. Moellering who discussed Fashion's Power Play: Consumers Take the Lead, she briefly touched on the key factors that are currently reshaping the retail world. By exposing how the industry went from market driven to consumer driven, referencing movie 'Funny Face', it became clear that the power has indeed shifted into the hands of the consumer. The discussion moved onto how consumers are now aware, they expect more from the product then just the product itself, they are now seeing the value in a good cause, weather it be environmental or ethical. As a design student I found Moellering's discussion educational as she explored avenues in which designers, brands, retailers and manufacturers can navigate through these new conditions and arrive on a more profitable, stable outcome. The advice given was to employ engagement strategies, know your consumer and utilise the Internet by empowering the consumer. Throughout this discussion I took as many notes as I could fit onto the blank page provided, as I believe every grain of information will prove to be highly useful for me as a designer trying to break into the industry.

Conference Cocktail party

What Goes Around Comes Around

What Goes Around Comes Around, vintage store, hosted the second and final cocktail party for the Initiative in art and culture conference. With the option to shop, it was brought to my attention that Chanel and Valentino were once again casually hanging from the window cills. Books were open for viewing across the jewellery cabinets, which is where I found an image of a women being man handled, wearing a bra that caught my attention. I am still unsure of what attracted me to it, weather it was the shape or the hint of texture, but I was instantly inspired.

Note: Design Inspiration, braziere, textured, vinatage, hand sewn flowers?

2nd December 2010.

The Natural History Museum

Day 11

The Natural History Museum is yet another museum that would take weeks to explore, in order to take it all in. Spending the morning in the museum only gave me the time to see the African Mammals, the Reptiles and the Solar System display. The African Mammals were initially incredible, until I learnt that they were real African Mammals that had been captured, killed, stuffed and donated to the museum. The Reptiles were also captured, killed, stuffed and donated to the museum. The Solar System area, had a sphere displayed that was described as a Solar System, there was a plant through the middle, water and tiny fish swimming throughout it. Apparently the sphere is self sufficient, feeding the fish, cleaning the water and providing light for the plant to grow, it was a Earth.

Mood

After finding my direction and concept inspiration for my graduating collection, I had been remembering fabrics that I saw in mood that could be useful for not only my final garments but for twalling also. One in particular came to mind, another silk of a pattern of daisy's black, white and yellow, softly bleeding into one another. When I finally found the fabric amongst thousands of textiles and had it ready to buy, the sales women laid out a yard and realised it was printed in panels, that bled into black. Although I did not buy the textile, I took a high res photo and have decided to recreate the print to be printed in Australia (with no bleeding).

Conference Cocktail Party

Jewellery store

Tonight I dressed up in my finest and attended the cocktail party at a Jewellery store, for the fashion conference that will be running over the next two days. With Jewellery designers launching there lines there were New York socialites, stylists and their rich husbands flocking around $100, 000 pieces. Not knowing the price of the item I tried on a ring that was in the shape of a starfish, that moulded fittingly around my finger and clasped onto a oversized mother of pearl. The starfish was encrusted with little black diamonds and had a price tag of $180,000. I met a women by the name of Susan Sommers, who was also trying on the jewellery and sighing at the price tag, she was a personal style coach on West End Avenue. After talking to her about her profession she gave me a business card, so I could view her website. She was an inspiring women, she even shared a phrase: create a first impression that opens doors.

1st December 2010.

Exploring Soho and Noho

Day 10

Due to fast tracking the Fabric shopping, the itinerary was free for the day, so with a small group I explored around Soho and Noho, revisiting and finding vintage stores along the way. Walking around the streets of New York City today I took more notice of the people on the street, bumping and shuffling past me. Why in New York City, a fashion capital, is there no one standing out from the crowd? Well no one except from the gays in tight pink lycra and hoop earrings. BLACK, BLACK, BLACK... does any New Yorkians own any coloured garments? With the cold winter weather, came heavy rain today, therefore the only discovery on our exploration was Magnolia Bakery from Sex in the City, some hidden vintage stores, macaroons and a extremely fat cat in a record store.

30th November 2010.

Notorious and Notable

20th Century Women of Style

Day 9

"Style - without it, you're nobody." Diana Vreeland

Today I attended the Notorious and Notable 20th Century Women of Style exhibition. As soon as I walked through the doors I was inspired by the quotes splashed upon the walls, slideshow of 20th Century women and display of fine jewellery and exquisite garments. I began to make my way around the room by first admiring the jewels in glass cabinets, each displaying a blurb about the women who wore/owned them and a quote from the women herself. It was at this moment that I found my concept inspiration, "There are no ugly women, only lazy ones." Helena Rubinstein. Excited by my discovery, my mind instantly ran wild with design ideas, fabric choices and colour pallets. Of course I am yet to fully form my concept, but I now have direction and inspiration to begin designing for my graduating collection. I made my way to the garments, where I made another discovery, a fishtail skirt. The women of style who wore this skirt was a stripper/ exotic dancer, but this is not what grabbed my attention. The entry and exit of this skirt were buttons which fell down the entire centre back. This was for practical purposes, seduction.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

The whole two weeks of this trip to New York City would not have been enough time to see all that there is to see in The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Today I spent a large chunk of the day in the Museum and only made my way through the Egyptian history and the Contemporary art. The Egyptian Mummies, sphinx's and coffins were unbelievable. The inscriptions on the stone tombs were a work of art, if only I could understand what dog, cat, snake, snake, egyptian man and vase meant. The contemporary art was refreshing, there were varieties of sculptures, paintings, sketches, woodwork and some things couldn't be defined to one category. One painting had my attention, after being inspired by Helena Rubinstein's quote. It was of a women with an oversized nose (side view) and next to her was an image of herself (side view) with a normal, attractive nose. The word HAPED was stamped above the images. I was unsure of the meaning behind the word HAPED, but it made me reflect on Rubinstein's statement "There are no ugly women, only lazy ones.". An oversized nose is generally considered unattractive, however would a women with an oversized nose fall under the lazy category if she were not to book in to a plastic surgeon for a nose job?

The Lion King

on broadway

Tonight I attended The Lion King on broadway at the Minskoff Theatre in Times Square. I cried in the opening scene (circle of life), as the costumes and South African vocals were so moving. Sadly I was unable to take photos of the production, but this is one experience of the New York Study Tour that I will cherish, and never forget. Not only were the costumes innovative but they were realistic, they mimicked the wild animals movements. Seeing this performance gave me a interest in costume design, maybe something I will look into after my graduating year.

29th November 2010.

Balenciaga Exhibition

Day 8

Today I attended the Balenciaga Exhibition, curated by Hamish Bowles. Although I was unable to take photographs in the exhibition, I will never forget the amazing display of Balenciaga’s work. It was a three story exhibition, with the top floor containing a film/ documentary on Balenciaga, beside it, an array of books, magazines and sketches on display behind glass. Downstairs was an exhibition of Balenciaga’s garments with blurbs explaining the fabrics, techniques and inspiration of each garment. It was a lifetime experience , not only to witness Balenciaga’s masterpieces, but to also gain insight into how and where the Spanish Master drew his inspiration from and furthermore the design process that he undertook. Balenciaga, more often then most, worked with Spain as a common theme, drawing inspiration from the theme to design each garment. Having learnt this process, I feel that I will be greatly influenced by Balenciaga’s practices in my design process, specifically in my search for concept inspiration.

Note: Design Inspiration, Evening coat of scarlet silk ottoman, winter 1954.

Fabric Shopping

With the afternoon free, we decided we could not wait until tomorrow to begin fabric shopping. On foot we set off to find the Fashion district, which was where the fabric store featured on Project Runway, MOOD was located. After a few decent hours of walking between and around blocks, we walked into our first New York fabric store. Overwhelmed an unable to move between the spools of fabric we hastily exited and entered the neighboring store, Prime Fabrics. I was in owe of the detailing and embroidery of each individual textile I picked up. I wanted a sample of everything I touched. I was instantly inspired by one fabric featuring cotton flowers, individually hand sewn onto a light tule. I bought just a sample, as I decided I would recreate the fabric myself, I want to cut out and hand sew individual flowers, in a variety of fabrics and patterns to create my own individual texture and textile. Today, at this moment I decided that my theme/direction for my third year collection would revolve around femininity, however I am yet to find my inspiration that will give birth to my concept. Next was MOOD, where fabrics were displayed over two- three levels, every type of textile imaginable in every colour, along with designer prints. Again I wanted a sample of everything I touched, and this was allowed but I was so overwhelmed and frantic about not wanting to skip over anything, that I ran out of time for even one sample. I came home with a 100% Silk, watercolour like print, at $70 a yard, It will be a feature in my recreation of the sample from Prime Fabrics.

28th November 2010.

Statue of Liberty

Day 7

Today I caught the fairy from Battery Park to the Statue of Liberty National Monument. Not knowing much about the history of the Statue of Liberty, it was interesting to hear that it was a gift from the French to America, as a sign of peace.

27th November 2010.

Antique Garage

Day 6

Today we rummaged through an Antique Garage markets, which was underground. There was multiple stalls selling goods from jewelry and ornaments to designer silk scarves and vintage clothing. As the saying goes, one persons trash, is another persons treasure. We made our way across the city through Soho in hope of finding the young designers markets. The young designers markets, however had less garments than expected, instead it was cluttered with jewelry and crafts. One designer stall did have fashion items that were half innovative, scarves with hoods and mittens?

26th November 2010.

Making a List

Day 5

Ali and I decided to further research the Vintage Stores in New York City, preparing a list last night and plotting them on our pocket maps so that we were ready to hit Chelsea, The Meatpacking district, Soho and Noho today. Yet again we were mesmerized by the quality of Vintage we were stumbling across, Chanel, Valentino, Givenchy, Hermes, Escada and the list, literally, goes on and on. One Vintage store, Sale Couture and Vintage Couture, had a dress displayed in the window that caught my eye. I tried it on not wanting to know the price of the garment, but when I fell in love I had Ali reveal it to me, and guess what... it was in my price range and I am now the owner of my dream dress, that I have no occasion for... yet.

Wondering around on foot, we came across some billboards, street art and window displays that caught our attention. One in particular had two bags featured in the window of the store, made out of clay bones, painted white and pinned together, at the time this caught my eye, as i was questioning if they were for use and if so, the practicality of the item, but when we proceeded to walk into the store, the aesthetic of the bags for sale did not suit the raw warrior theme of the displays, that turned out to be a display only.

25th November 2010.

Thanksgiving Day Parade

Day 4

Today is Thanksgiving, a traditional American Holiday. I attended the Thanksgiving day parade in times square, in the coldest winter weather I’ve experienced in New York. There were millions of people huddled within barricades to see the Macey’s parade (department store). The floats were incredible, nearly all yielding a large floating balloon resembling cartoon characters, such as, Mickey Mouse, Spongebob Square Pants and Hello Kitty. The atmosphere was festive, children were joyfully singing the theme song of which ever cartoon character was in sight, parents were wearing turkey hats and politely wishing strangers a happy holiday.

Empire State Building

With a free day on our hands a small group decided to go to the Empire State Building, to view New York City from the heights of the tallest building in the city. When we reached the top of the 381 meter building, I was breath taken by the view. I was standing on the top of the Empire State Building viewing the fast pace of the city beneath me, taxi’s were the majority of cars on the roads, black was yet again the only thing I could see people wearing and it begun sleeting.

Thanksgiving Dinner

Thanksgiving dinner was consumed at a diner tonight. With my not so adventurous appetite, however i did not eat a traditional thanksgiving meal like some.

24th November 2010.

Vintage Shopping

Day 3

Today was a 9am start, we all met at the Chelsea International Hostel, where Mark Neighbour (tour guide for the day) had his list and map plotted of the Vintage and thrift stores surrounding Chelsea. Our First stop was Bonny and Sherri’s Vintage, an inviting store on W 20th st. I found myself first at the jewelry cabinet, pointing out a pair of gold earrings that i wished to try, to my excitement they were GIVENCHY, and only $23. It was at this moment that I took in the rest of my surroundings to find Chanel shoes casually at my feet and Valentino hanging by the dresser. One thing I learnt today was that Australia has nothing on American Vintage.

The garments we came across today were inspiring to say the least not only were they cherished vintage goods in impeccable condition, but they were garments that displayed embellishments, detailing and finishes that I would never had imagined existed. One Vintage store merchandised by years, which was educational for a fashion student as I could flick through the variations of pants, skirts, dresses and shirts and see what lengths, techniques, finishes, styles and even colours were in trend during those specific years.

Cuban Cafe